Tangles of Taste by Guérard

Michel Guérard’s carte gourmande is the most untraditional of all the three-star menus, and the least fixed. Dishes appear and disappear in restless fashion, reflecting the chef’s volatile nature. The consistent theme is one of lightness and, to some extent, fantasy.

Among the hors d’oeuvres, two of Guérard’s flights of fancy are the deux oeufs poule au caviar—lightly scrambled eggs mixed with chopped onion, chives and cream, put back in their shells and topped with caviar—and the trois feuilletés legers de saison— pastry leaves which, depending on the season, may contain asparagus, cocks’ crests and kidneys, artichokes, oysters, foie gras, truffles or duck.