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Great Cooks and Their Recipes
Great Cooks and Their Recipes

By Anne Willan

Published 1977

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  1. American Heritage Magazine: The American Heritage Cookbook and Illustrated History of American Eating and Drinking. American Heritage Publishing Co., 1964.
  2. Aresty, Esther B.: The Delectable Past. Simon and Schuster, 1964. Also The Exquisite Table (a history of French cuisine). Bobbs-Merrill, 1980.
  3. Beck, Leonard N.: Two ‘Loaf-Givers’ (a tour through the gastronomic libraries of Katherine Golden Bitting and Elizabeth Robbins Pennell). Library of Congress, Washington, 1984. A knowledgeable survey with a long chapter on Platina.
  4. Burnet, Regula: Ann Cook and Friend. Oxford University Press, 1936. This book recounts the bizarre tale of Ann Cook’s attacks on Hannah Glasse.
  5. Chiappini, Luciano: La Corte Estense alia metà del Cinquecento (notebooks of Cristofero di Messisbugo). Belri- guardo, 1984.
  6. Dodds, Madeleine Hope: “The Rival Cooks: Hannah Glasse and Ann Cook.” Archeologia Aeliana, Society of Antiquaries, Newcastle upon Tyne, ser. 4, vol. 15, 1938. It was in this authoritative article that Hannah Glasse’s origins were first unveiled. I am grateful to Mr L. G. Allgood, a direct descendant of Sir Lancelot Allgood (Hannah’s half brother) for providing me with additional information about Hannah taken from family letters (now in the keeping of Newcastle Public Library) which Mr A.H.T. Robb-Smith summarized in some unpublished notes written in 1961.
  7. Escoffier, Auguste: Souvenirs Inédits, Editions Laffitte, 1985. Interesting autobiographical notes and fragments edited for publication by Escoffier’s grandson, Pierre.
  8. Faccioli, Emilio, ed.: Arte della cucina. 2 vols. Edizione il Polifilo, 1966. Contains full text of Martino ms. and extracts from other classical Italian cookbooks.
  9. Flandrin, J.-L. with Philip and Mary Hyman: Le Cuisinier François. Montalba, 1983. A reprint of both Cuisinier and Pâtissier françois, with a valuable commentary.
  10. Freeman, Sarah: Isabella and Sam (the story of Mrs Beeton). Gollancz, 1977. Also Mutton and Oysters (the Victorians and their food). Gollancz, 1989.
  11. Gottschalk, Alfred: Histoire de l’alimentation et de la gastronomie. 2 vols. Editions Hippocrate, 1948.
  12. Guégan, Bertrand: Le Cuisinier Français. Emile Paul Frères, 1934. Reprinted by Belfond, Paris, 1980. The ninety-page introduction is one of the best historical surveys of French cooking.
  13. Hartley, Dorothy: Food in England. Macdonald, 1954. A landmark in English culinary literature.
  14. Herbert, A. Kenney: “The Literature of Cookery”. National Review, 1895, pp. 676-684, 776-789.
  15. Herbodeau, Eugene and Paul Thalamas: Georges Auguste Escoffier. Practical Press, 1955.
  16. Hess, John L. and Karen: The Taste of America, Grossman, New York 1977. Includes a trenchant critique of Fannie Farmer.
  17. Hieatt, Constance B. and Butler, Sharon (eds.): Curye on Inglysh. English culinary manuscripts of the fourteenth century, including the Forme of Cury. Early English Text Society, London, 1985. Constance Hieatt also edited An Ordinance of Pottage (Prospect Books, London, 1988) which features fifteenth-century culinary texts.
  18. Layard, A.H.: “Renaissance Cookery”. Murray’s Magazine, March 1891.
  19. Levy, Paul: Obt to Lunch. Chatto and Windus, 1986. Contains account of Escoffier’s dismissal from the Savoy Hotel.
  20. Lotteringhi della Stufa, Maria Luisa: Desinari e cene and Pranzi e conviti (2 vols). Olimpia, 1965. Entertaining and well-documented histories of mainly Tuscan cooking through the centuries.
  21. M.M.: “Gastronomy and Civilization”. Fraser’s Magazine, December 1851. (This article briefly quotes Voltaire’s views on nouvelle cuisine - for full text, see his letter of September 6, 1765 to Comte d’Autrey.) M.M. is Mary Ellen Meredith, whose father (Thomas Love Peacock) and whose husband by a second marriage (George Meredith) were both novelists with a taste for the table. Her daughter by her first marriage, Edith Clarke, was also prominent in British cooking as head of the National Training School of Cookery in London.
  22. Mallock, M.M.: ‘Old English Cookery”. Quarterly Review, January 1894.
  23. Manchester Collectanea: (proceedings of the Chetham Society, vol. 2, 1872): “Elizabeth Raffald” (a popular cookbook writer second only to Hannah Glasse in eighteenth-century England).
  24. Mennell, Stephen: All Manners of Food. Basil Blackwell, 1985. (Penguin paperback, 1987.)
  25. Moulin, Leo: Les Liturgies de la Table. Albin Michel, 1989. A good source for food and wine iconography.
  26. Prospect Books: Petits Propos Culinaires. Essays and notes edited by Alan Davidson on food, cookery and cookery books. Available thrice yearly from 45 Lamont Road, London SW10. Prospect Books also publish facsimiles of old cookbooks and some important new English cookbook bibliographies.
  27. Revel, Jean-François: Un festín en paroles. Pauvert, Paris, 1979.
  28. Riley, Gillian (transl.): The Fruit, Herbs and Vegetables of Italy (Giacomo Castelvetro ms, -1614). Viking, 1989. A fascinating rediscovered account by an Italian exile in Jacobean England.
  29. Scully, Terence (ed.): The Viandier of Taillevent, University of Ottawa Press, 1988. This scholarly edition compares all the different versions of the Viandier.
  30. Tannahill, Reay: Food in History. Stein and Day, 1973. (Penguin paperback, 1988.)
  31. Vehling, J.D.: “Martino and Platina, Exponents of Renaissance Cookery”. Hotel Bulletin and The Nation’s Chefs, vol. 49, no. 14, Chicago, 1932. Mr Vehling was the finder of the Martino ms. now in the Library of Congress. Since this ms. is identical not only to the recipe sections in Platina’s De honesta voluptate et valetudine (1474) but also to the cookbook Epulario (1516), Vehling’s assumption that the ms. dates from about 1450 – i.e., was extant before Platina wrote his work – is questionable. An article by Agostino Cavalcabo (“Platina, maestro dell’arte culinaria,” in Cremona, no. 7, 1935) and Vehling’s subsequent monograph (Platina and the Rebirth of Man, Chicago, 1941) throws no further light on dating.
  32. Volant, F. and Warren, J.R.: Memoirs of Alexis Soyer. London, 1859. Reprinted by Cooks Books (see below). This book was the source for Portrait of a Chef by Helen Morris (Cambridge, 1938; Oxford University Press paperback, 1980).
  33. Warner, Richard: Antiquitates Culinariae. London, 1791. Not a Latin work, but one of the earliest English histories of gastronomy; still makes racy reading. Reprinted by Prospect Books (q.v.).
  34. Westbury, Lord: Handlist of Italian Cookery Books. Leo S. Olschki, Florence, 1963. The introductory essay in this bibliography stands on its own as the best overview of Italian culinary history available in English.
  35. Wilson, C. Anne: Food and Drink in Britain from the Stone Age to Recent Times. Constable, 1973. An authoritative survey.
  36. Wheaton, Barbara: Savouring the Past. University of Pennsylvania Press, 1983. One of the best recent histories of French cooking.

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