Spring-Scented Lunch for 8

• Tarragon French roast chicken
• Leeks, rice, peas and mangetouts
• Lemon pie

With tarragon chicken, I like rice or mashed potato, to mop up the chickeny juices. And I’d adapt Jane Grigson’s recipe for German leeks and wine. You cut the clean leeks into logs about 6–9cm long, depending on overall size of leek. (And work on the principle of 3 logs, that’s to say probably 1 leek, per person.) Stew these logs slowly in butter in a covered pan for about 5 minutes, turning them occasionally: they should all be buttery. Then, pour in 175–200ml dry white wine (more if the arrangement of the pan seems to demand it) and keep cooking over a low heat, lid on. After about 10 minutes, when the leeks are ready (tender but not squidgy) remove them to a dish and, if there’s too much liquid left, boil down the juices. Whisk in a knob of butter and pour over the leeks. Use white not black pepper, or it’ll just look as if you haven’t cleaned them properly.