Cheese

If you are lucky enough to have access to one of the rare retailers who knows and cares about cheese, ask for June’s most glorious French imports: Gratte Paille, a luscious, mild brick with a soft white rind, Saint-Marcellin rouge, creamy and fresh tasting, and Pont l’Evêque, best bought by the piece from a large, bulging ‘cutting’ cheese because it tends to ripen better than the small versions in little wooden boxes. The blue ewe’s milk cheese, Roquefort, is coming deliciously to the end of its season. One bite of a well kept specimen and real cheese fanatics won’t want to eat anything else all June. Gabriel Coulet is the only hand-made marque, but, Papillon is also good.