June

Appears in

The Independent Cook: Strategies for Seasonal Cooking

Published 1988

About

Hey ho! Another month of asparagus, salmon and strawberries. The brilliance of trees’ new green is wearing off; the ubiquitous fields of day-glo rape have faded; it doesn’t get truly dark in the gardens of country pubs until nearly closing time.

More prosaically, retail chains launch the summer sales push on the idea of outdoor eating: jazzy little stickers, claiming ‘Suitable for BBQs’, appear on the meanest shrink-wrapped pork chop and packet of sausages while meat-counters scale wild heights of imagination on the wooden skewer and kebab front. Men who wouldn’t dream of letting delice de volaille grillé aux crudités de saison anywhere near their lips nevertheless don hilarious pinnies to toss salads and watch over blackened drumsticks that sullenly spit with each application of their own special barbecue sauce, which always has a ‘secret ingredient’, which always turns out to be Tabasco.

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