‘The glorious 12th’ is a fantastically exciting day in August for all chefs as it marks the beginning of a whole new larder of game, an extremely healthy, low in fat and great value for money ingredient. I advise everybody, whether they are a home cook or a seasoned professional chef to make the most of it. I create all sorts of dishes throughout the season utilising its versatility, such as curried snipe and rabbit rissoles, and in the more familiar dishes, such as coq au vin, I use pheasant or guinea fowl instead of chicken. As soon as grouse season kicks off, we take delivery of the first young birds, which usually appear on the menu by the 13th. I simply roast the birds, serve traditionally garnished with bread sauce, game chips, redcurrant, watercress, fried breadcrumbs and a croute of the livers. Grouse isn’t to everyone’s taste because of its strong gamey flavour, but I encourage everybody not to knock it until they’ve tried it.