The joy of developing a collection of ‘modern classics’ resides in the fact that I can cook what I like. As a cook, cooking in Britain today, with the ingredients available to me, how can I help but cook ‘modern’ British? The barriers are down. I can wood-roast, char-grill and stir-fry. I can serve a chilli and papaya salsa with my roast lamb, steam my smoked haddock with lemon grass, serve it with a wasabi mash, and add soy sauce to my risotto. Can’t I? Well, actually, I can’t. Not me, personally.