Brawn

Pork cheese, head cheese, jellied veal, jellied ham, galantine of chicken are all later variations of the Anglo-Saxon bawr-en. This was originally the head meat of the wild boar, which was served set in a jelly, in an intricate and often lifelike shape, highly garnished, as the centrepiece of the high table in medieval times.

Recent recipe books give traditional methods of preparing brawn, but I am not certain that many of us have the time and, let’s face it, the nerve to deal with a whole pig’s head, ears, snout and all. However, jellied meats can make extremely good summertime dishes and are not difficult to cook. The principle is the same whatever meat you use. Gelatine-rich meat is cooked on the bone, in stock or water and wine, with herbs and other flavourings until the meat is tender. The meat is removed, chopped and placed loosely in a mould, the juices reduced, degreased and strained over the meat. The whole is allowed to set, and then is turned out and sliced for serving with, for example, a small green salad of bitter or pungent leaves such as endive, rocket or watercress, or with bread and pickles for a simple lunch.