Jacob Lellouche

‘We like to keep the real flavour of each element, so use few spices and herbs.’

Just outside Tunis is La Goulette (literally the ‘gullet’), a sleepy seaside resort of whitewashed villas. Those in the know turn off the main avenue, down a side street and enter the gates of a delightfully ramshackle house standing in an oasis of loquat trees, scarlet hibiscus and palm trees. It looks as intriguing as its discreet sign, ‘Mama Lilie’. What lies within is a table d’hote specializing in Tunisian- Jewish home cooking.