Quaglino’s Story

London high society in the 1920s emerged for the first time from private houses to play in public – or at least in hotels, clubs and restaurants – and after the horrors of the First World War it did so with a defiant exuberance. This was the era of the cocktail, and nights were for dancing until dawn. The dress was indisputably black tie; life was high for hedonists and the decadence was neatly encapsulated by the songs of Cole Porter such as ‘I get no kicks from champagne’.

Despite high society’s relaxed attitudes, a legal requirement of the day stipulated that in clubs alcohol could only be served with food, which meant that any inedible rubbish would do, simply for compliance; something that scarcely encouraged a culture of haute cuisine. As the decade drew to a close and the manic atmosphere calmed a little, however, even the younger socialites started to notice what they were eating. The party went on, but now it was attended by people who dined as well as danced.