Onion

IF ONIONS WERE AS RARE AS TRUFFLES, chefs would pay dearly for them. The onion is among the most powerful flavoring devices in the kitchen and works in numerous ways. But because onions are abundant and cheap, they, like salt and water, tend to be overlooked for what they are: a miracle ingredient that transforms food in many ways, in nearly every style of cuisine around the globe. I buy onions every time I’m in the grocery store, not because I need them, but because I fear not having an onion when I do need it. Not having an onion in the kitchen is like working with a missing limb.