The most essential ingredient of the zakuska table is herring, its saltiness stimulating the need for ever-larger doses of vodka. In Russia herring is prepared in many different ways. It may be pickled or served with savory sauces. It may be finely chopped, then molded to resemble a whole fish and garnished with a real head and tail. Or it may be fried in pieces and served with a tomato dressing. A fancy zakuska table boasts several of these preparations, several alternatives, but at least one is mandatory.