These sauces are based on a traditional sauce allemande (sauce velouté thickened with egg yolks). They can be adapted to flourless sauce-making techniques by thickening the flavor base with egg yolks, reduced cream, or butter. When egg yolks are the only thickener, 8 to 10 yolks per quart (liter) of liquid should be used, depending on the desired thickness of the sauce.
When thickening liquids with egg yolks, remember that they must not boil. Bring the liquid to be thickened to a simmer on top of the stove and whisk the egg yolks together in a bowl. Pour half of the simmering liquid over the yolks while whisking. Return the mixture to the pot containing the rest of the simmering liquid. Turn the flame down low and stir the sauce with a wooden spoon or spatula. Be sure to reach into the corners of the saucepan, where the sauce is most likely to congeal. Keep checking the thickness of the sauce by lifting the wooden spatula out of the sauce, holding it so the flat side is facing sideways, and making a horizontal line with the tip of a finger. When the line remains—that is, when the sauce does not run over and obscure it—the sauce is thick enough and should be removed from the heat. Be sure to remove the sauce from the heat while checking the spoon or it may curdle while you’re trying to figure it out. With experience, the spoon technique is no longer needed—it’s easy to tell when the egg yolks have done their job by the consistency of the sauce.