Avocados

Once in a while—usually during annual visits to California—I taste an avocado with the buttery texture and nutty flavor that recall the tree-ripened avocados of my childhood. Although such perfection is rare, decent avocados can be found year- round throughout the United States. The best are the ones with the rough, pitted skin—the small Hass avocados from California—but smooth-skinned Florida avocados are certainly worth using.

Buying avocados takes forethought, because in the markets they’re usually rock hard and you’ll need to leave them outside the refrigerator for a day or two to let them ripen. Try not to cut open an avocado any sooner than you need to, or it will turn brown. A good amount of lemon or lime juice—which is often included in avocado preparations anyway—will also help keep the avocado green.