In the last decade or so, tapas have conquered the world, radiating from their Hispanic source to tease the taste-buds of anyone in search of a generous snack to accompany a glass of wine. Yet such pan-national culinary clones are mere shadows of the real thing, which is only found in Spain itself. Racy flavours, high contrasts, generous doses of virgin olive oil, ultra-fresh ingredients, fearless use of offal and obsessive use of salt cod or cured ham - these are just some of the hallmarks of Spanish tapas. Somehow, this gastronomic dance is not far from the emotional highs and lows and the syncopated rhythms of flamenco - the iconic representation of Spain itself.