Hanoi Elegance

THE TRAIN ARRIVES IN HANOI WAY TOO EARLY; I’M NOT USED TO THE 5 A.M. STARTS. WE JUMP IN A TAXI, TOO DELIRIOUS TO THINK IF IT’S A LEGITIMATE TAXI OR ONE WITH A DODGY METER. WE SOON FIND OUT — NO TRAFFIC ON THE STREETS, FOUR MINUTES INTO THE RIDE AND IT ALREADY COSTS FAR TOO MUCH. I ASK THE DRIVER TO STOP, WE GRAB OUR BACKPACKS FROM THE BOOT AND I PAY HIM HIS MONEY. I’M TOO TIRED TO ARGUE.

We walk aimlessly towards the Old Quarter of Hanoi, past a wonderful jade-coloured lake. There’s a hub of activity going on for such a ridiculously early hour: groups of people, mostly elderly folk, are jogging, stretching, practising tai chi, kicking feathered shuttlecocks or playing badminton. I now understand how my great uncle has made it to ninety-two years of age.