WE DIVIDE VARIETY MEATS INTO TWO BROAD CATEGORIES WHEN WE CONSIDER THEM for sous vide: the soft organ meats (kidneys, liver, sweetbreads) and the tough muscles and “extreme” cuts (calf’s heart, tongue, pig’s tail).
For the tougher cuts, sous vide allows you to break down the connective tissues without overcooking the meat, the importance of which can’t be overstated. And for the softer organs, the techniques are more varied.
The sous vide kidney, a preparation Jonathan Benno defined—manipulating this cut, wrapping it in solid fat, bagging it, and cooking it very gently—was a revelation. Liver also works well. Corey Lee’s Confit of Moulard Duck Foie Gras is so pure and succulent it feels even more decadent than foie gras is normally. For sweetbreads, which have the capacity to absorb flavors, we create a flavorful cuisson of white veal stock, vermouth, and aromatics. The cuisson, further enhanced by the sweetbread juices, can then be used for cooking and enhancing other cuts such as the veal for the Blanquette de Veau.
