Skewers

When I was a kid, I associated skewers with the Muslim Quarter in Xi’an, where skewer stands would set up on smaller streets, blowing smoke in the air and perfuming the block with the smell of grilled meat. As a twenty-something, though, I started to associate skewers (or “meat sticks,” as my friends and I called them) with food carts. In Flushing, you might be able to find Fat Ni BBQ Cart next to a parking lot, serving everything from chicken heart to quail on sticks. We used to serve these skewers at our (now closed) sit-down restaurant Biang!, but they’re much better enjoyed out in the open, with friends, after a beer (or, if it’s late at night, a few shots). The key here is the seasoning: Almost anything will taste delicious when grilled, topped with red chili powder, and slathered with the right sauce. But while the prep might look similar for all the skewers, watch out for the differences in marination, cooking time, and sauces—each recipe is perfectly tailored for maximum flavor. So master these sauces, grab some cumin, and plan for a party.