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Grains of character

Appears in
A Year in a Scots Kitchen

By Catherine Brown

Published 1996

  • About
Historically they are humble everyday staples, yet nothing represents Scotland more than the food and drink traditions which have developed around oats and barley. While porridge, haggis and oatcakes use oats as their distinctive ingredient, it’s barley which makes the whisky. Until the end of the 17th century both oats and barley were commonly used for cooking but it was around this time that barley’s power as a malted grain for distilling began to develop.

It was the Highlander’s enthusiasm for home-distilling, a useful method of preserving surplus barley, which gave cold northerners their attractive warming drink. The ‘water of life’ (Gaelic — uisge beatha, Scots — usquebae, iskie bae) was a staple drink, taken regularly with meals by both adults and children before tea became the everyday stimulant. In every Highland glen, sacks of barley would be soaked in the burn for a few days to soften the grain and begin germination. Then the grain would be spread out to allow it to sprout, which would be halted by drying over a peat fire. The now ‘malted’ grain would go into a large tub with boiling water and yeast to ferment. Once fermented, it would be passed twice through the pot still and the middle cut (the drinkable part) would be separated from the foreshots, and the aftercuts or feints.

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