Steamed Cauliflower with Bottarga Sauce

This dish is very South of France, which is how Mark and I felt walking around the Santa Monica Farmer’s Market one January afternoon, wondering what to cook. We could hear the crash of the waves along the huge, white, sandy beach, and we thought of Hyeres near Toulon and of lunches with Richard Olney at his house nearby when the air was just as balmy.

We used a steamer, but if you cover the cauliflowe