My mother, who was a great home cook, became a professional restaurateur when I was sixteen. It was great experience for me to work in her meyhane as a kitchenhand while I was studying. I became the fallback cook every time she sacked her chef, which, on average, was about once a month. I got a crash course in meze preparation, barely having time to learn one new recipe from each chef before they disappeared.
One dish mum would never let anyone else touch was the fava, which she made with her own hands in spring, using a mixture of dried and fresh broad beans and adding black olive paste because she liked the colour contrast. She said fava should be like a cake—able to endure a long sitting at a meze table. If the cake collapses, it’s a dip, not a fava.
In this recipe I have used dried beans, so you can make fava all year round, but if you’re making it in spring, you could include fresh broad beans (double peeled).