Mum’s Broad Bean Pâté

My mother, who was a great home cook, became a professional restaurateur when I was sixteen. It was great experience for me to work in her meyhane as a kitchenhand while I was studying. I became the fallback cook every time she sacked her chef, which, on average, was about once a month. I got a crash course in meze preparation, barely having time to learn one new recipe from each chef before they disappeared.

One dish mum would never let anyone else touch was