Thrace is a region that overlaps Greece, Bulgaria and Turkey. In the Turkish part, the town of Edirne (named after the Roman emperor Hadrian) is known for two things: olive oil wrestling and the livers of the cattle that grow in the neighbourhood. The liver is sliced very long and thin so that it looks like leaves (yaprak) and is always pan-fried. One thing I learned from an Edirne liver master was to rest the liver in milk to drain the excess blood and soften the taste. I’ve had