When I put testicles on the menu many people thought I was trying to create a sensation, but I was actually making a point about sustainability. When I was growing up, Turkey was going through economically tough times, and it was important not to waste anything. The butchers would reserve offal for the families that had young children, as a source of protein. I grew up eating liver, kidneys, brains and testicles, and anyone looking at my height today would say that they must have been a