The lovely Deborah Madison, ex Chez Panisse chef and lover of great produce, once took me to buy cherries in Santa Fe’s glorious farmers’ market. My eyes, watering from the chilli fumes in the air, watched as seemingly endless Amtrak trains trundled past the marketplace on a journey with hundreds of miles between stations. Cherries purchased (I remember she had a particular favourite, the orange Royal Annes)
