Xo Fried Rice

A recent invention, XO is a crazy-good sauce of dried seafood, chilli, garlic, soy and ham. The Hong Kong chef who created it christened it ‘XO’, which means ‘extra old’, borrowing the name from a luxury cognac. There are more complicated ways of producing it, but this is a pared-down version. Traditionally XO includes dried scallops, but they’re impossible to get hold of unless you visit Chinatown.