I must explain why I use the word ‘organic’ in this recipe. The strawberries we were getting were so delicious, so intensely flavoured, perfectly ripe and chaotically shaped that we had to serve them simply and in abundance. It would have been a crime to trick them out in a clever recipe, and I wanted to emphasize that it was the strawberries themselves that were the stars of the dish. If you do this dish with thinly flavoured, water-puffed strawberries, you will need to do a song and dance