I wasn’t too comfortable with the dessert squad using ‘tiramisu’ in the title of this dish, even though in savoury dishes I often use familiar words and names of dishes as signposts to the general territory of a new dish. There’s something about that word, though, and one night a woman sent her terrine back, saying ‘that’s not a tiramisu, I make great tiramisu and that one doesn’t even...’. So let me say now that this is a layered frozen dessert that has some of the flavours of a traditiona