In the 1970s, the chef Nora Daza opened the restaurant Aux Îles Philippines in Paris, in the Latin Quarter on the Left Bank, and the luminaries descended. Brigitte Bardot came for the lumpia; Simone de Beauvoir put in an appearance, and reportedly so did a Bourbon prince. Among the specialties was tenderloin anointed with soy sauce and calamansi (an indigenous citrus with a bit of the sweetness of an orange but tart as a lime), touted