Dry Spicy Bagoong Noodles with Fish Balls in Broth

In the Philippines, fish balls are a street snack—we call them tusoktusok, or poke-poke—skewered and deep-fried. My dad used to bring home packs of them frozen, to pop in the fryer and then slake with different sauces. I learned to love them in broth by eating pho, ordering the Pho Dac Biet #1 at one of San Jose’s many Vietnamese restaurants, which came with everything: bouncy fish balls, tripe, braised beef tendon with the texture of a warm Haribo gummy bear, and flimsy sheets of sirloin s