The Fil-Am poet Sarah Gambito once wrote what I think was the best description of lechon ever: “When God was Filipino/he put a pig and fire together and called it porkissimo.” Lechon is the golden fulcrum, the point around which the most lavish Filipino feasts revolve: a whole roasted suckling pig, the skin fragile and shiny as lacquer and all crackle. It is a declaration: This is a party. Nothing less would do for Lola’s hundredth birthday. Traditionally, it’s made by skew