You need to start several days ahead. Take the eye of the meat from the bone to produce 2 fillets and put to one side. Chop the bone and cook on top of the stove with the finely chopped carrots, leeks and onions until a very dark colour. Add the bouquet garni, juniper berries, peppercorns, garlic, bay leaf and red wine. Top with cold water, season well, and cook until the maximum flavour is achieved, skimming all the time. When the stock is ready, strain though a fine sieve and reduce to a rich sauce consistency. Coat the venison fillets with this and leave to marinate for several days in a cool place, turning frequently.
To prepare the celeriac, first boil the potato until three-quarters cooked. Remove from the water, allow to cool, then grate. Peel and grate the celeriac: there should be two-thirds celeriac to one-third potato. Mix the two together and season with salt and pepper. Take a round plain cutter, place some of the mixture inside and push down with a spoon until you have made a small pancake shape. When you are almost ready to serve the dish, fry this pancake in butter until golden brown and crispy on both sides.
Next, peel, core, quarter and turn the apples with a small knife into barrel shapes. Put the caster sugar in a heavy-based pan, just cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Let this cook until a caramel colour has been achieved and add the Calvados. Drop the apples into the hot caramel, cook for about 1 minute and then remove.
Take the venison from the marinade, cut into 4 pieces and cook in the butter on the top of the stove for a few minutes on both sides, making sure that you keep the meat medium rare.
Put the marinade into a saucepan and reduce for a few minutes. Add a few knobs of butter if required.
To present the dish, put the celeriac rosti towards the top of the plate and top with the glazed apples. Slice the venison and arrange in a fan below the celeriac, and pour the sauce around it.
© 1988 Keith Floyd estate. All rights reserved.