Chilli crab is Singapore’s fave wokked mollusc, and comes in all guises. This one I unearthed in a food hall, and with a touch of India about its gills, it’s gorgaous. Every nook, cranny and hollow yields the sweetest - sometimes meagre, sometimes generous - morsels. It’s a slow-picking game, so the pleasure comes in little doses and spurts; hands-on stuff, which demands constant licking, so finger bowls and wipes at the ready, and that bowl of regular rice.
First remove the top shell from the crabs, then quarter them and, using a rolling pin, thwack the shell of the large front claws to smash it but leave it all intact. In a wok, fry the chillies and garlic in
© 2004 Alastair Hendy. All rights reserved.