No one would want to visit Aries without, if possible, eating at Le Vaccarès, where Bernard Dumas not only serves the best food in town but composes his menus with respect to the location and history of this ancient city. He introduced me to brouffade, a dish which he says often appears incorrectly under the name grillade. But the true brouffade, once frequently prepared by the mariners of the Rhône (who still transport goods from Aries and Marseilles t