I first began to think about pasta seriously while working on The French Laundry Cookbook with Thomas Keller and listening to his stories about learning to make pasta with an old grandmother he met and worked for in a restaurant in a small town in Italy. In those days, the early 1990s, he said the talk centered on who could get the most yolks into a kilo of flour. The more yolks the better, but too many and the dough would become too sticky and difficult to work with. The consensus was that the ideal was 30 yolks per kilo, or 50 percent more yolk than flour (1.5 kilos yolk per 1 kilo flour). This makes a very rich, yellow, flavorful pasta. I think adding one whole egg and a little water makes it easier to work with, with little difference in richness. I serve it as is, with just a little butter or delicious olive oil. If I am lucky enough to have some truffle, I’d put shavings on top, but little else.