Seedy Brown Bread and Seaweed Butter

Seaweed is everywhere in London these days, including a dish of smoked eel tucked beneath a translucent blanket of red dulse that I had at Lyle’s, a chic restaurant that serves great British farmstead or seaside ingredients with restrained modern elegance. If you don’t have fresh dulse on hand (and who does, really?), this compound butter is a simple way to bring some bright-but-rich seaweed flavor to your kitchen. It’s great with bread and can also be melted into any number of cooked dishe