At Magnolia Grill in Durham, North Carolina, Ben Barker has become one of the most innovative chefs in the entire nation, while his wife, Karen, has probably done more to add new dimension to Southern desserts than any other pastry expert. Her lemon-coconut tart was what impressed me first. Then, when I tasted this light, silky, beautifully balanced sweet potato pie spiked with bourbon, I realized that the more standard pie I’d always baked at Thanksgiving
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