Sausage and Seafood Gumbo

Land Cajun and sea Cajun join in the big black gumbo pot. If you’re cooking Cajun, you emphasize the dark, smoky taste of a black roux, heightened by the peppery smoked ham they call tasso, and thickened by gluey okra. If you’re cooking Creole, you keep the roux blond and thicken it with the powdered sassafras called “filé.” What you put in the pot is what you have in your hand. The Picayune is rather conservative in listing among its gumbos Turkey Gumbo, Squirrel or Rabbit Gu