Two centuries before Americans identified soy sauce exclusively with China and Japan, Sarah Rutledge and other Carolina housewives were bottling mixtures of highly flavored pickled sauce to enliven broths and sauces and gravies just as we do today. I’ve included a recipe here for such a soy sauce to indicate how sophisticated these sauces might be in the hands of a good cook accustomed to making everything from scratch. Since the soy sauce calls for mushroom ketchup and wal