The beauty of grilled sweetbreads is that you leave the membrane on (saving all that work of peeling them), so they hold together on the grill. The grilling cooks off the membrane.
Mix the olive oil, tarragon, and cardamom together in a bowl. Add the sweetbreads and toss until well coated with the oil. Refrigerate for 2 hours.
Start a wood or charcoal fire, or preheat the broiler.
Salt the sweetbreads and then grill or broil them at medium heat for 8 minutes per side, or until heated through and golden brown on both sides.
Mix the cilantro sprigs with half the lemon oil and the serrano chilies and make nests on warm plates. Put the sweetbreads on the cilantro and serve, drizzling the sweetbreads with the rest of the oil.
© 2002 Jeremiah Tower. All rights reserved.