Slow-Braised Lemon Veal with Leeks

Even if you had supplied our needs in the desert for forty years, but did not send us manna from heaven, dayenu, it would have been enough.”

The rousing seder song “Dayenu” is about gratitude, but this ninth stanza might remind us that sometimes the Israelites, like us, were anything but appreciative. “Nothing but this manna to look at,” they kvetched, recalling with longing the slave food they ate: “The fish that we used to eat in Egypt, the cucumbers, the melons, the leeks,