This is the master kimchi recipe, the one that non-Koreans think of when they hear the word kimchi—baechu means “cabbage.” It’s also known as poggi kimchi: Poggi means “fold,” since you fold up whole cabbages and ferment them. This would traditionally have been made after the cabbage harvest as a way to preserve it. You’d pack the cabbage into clay pots, sometimes buried underground to keep them from freezing in the colder months, pulling out what you need all winter long. I’ve often said there is no wrong way to make kimchi, as long as your fermentation is successful, and this is my version, with fermented seafood and a paste made from sweet rice powder. Another important step is using your hands to season the cabbage, which is why it’s a good idea to invest in a box of disposable plastic gloves if you plan to make this often, as the marinade can stain your hands.