Baked Potatoes with Caviar

Ok, so this is a rare treat. And with wild sturgeon in perilous decline, a ruinously expensive one, too. But there is some first-class farmed caviar out there, miles removed from that muddy muck from years gone by. I once went to a caviar tasting with Laura King, the real expert on all matters ovoid and salted. With me was chef Rowley Leigh and food writer