We were in Delhi in late November. Days were short and evenings cool. One evening we sat outside on the terrace at a restaurant, in layers of sweaters, not wanting to go inside; the stars were beautiful, the sky a midnight blue. All the other diners were safely indoors. We ordered dum biryani murgh from the very patient waiter, along with a chopped salad and a raita. The biryani came baked in its own small clay pot, aromatic, hot, tender, inviting. This is our take on that dish.