When Nicole and I travelled in Argentina, we expected plenty of beef and, while we enjoyed several good steaks, we were more struck by the local grilled chorizo, stuffed into cheap white rolls, flogged on every corner. If New York has hot dogs and South Africa, the boerie roll, Argentina’s national street food is choripan. I’ve always been into cured chorizo sliced into a charcuterie platter or occasionally used as a flavouring agent for mussels or a pasta sauce. The memory of Argentina’s charred, smoky sausages stayed with me, however, and, as soon as we returned, we started making our own fresh chorizo. It has many uses, but here we’ve used it to ramp up an old classic.