Only an ambitious home cook will go the whole nine yards and make something as complex as a granulated burger, but this recipe illustrates a larger point about effort and technique. There’s no reason something should be cooked a certain way just because that’s the way it’s usually done. When I think back on all those burgers I formed by hand, slapping ground beef thoughtlessly back and forth, back and forth, I weep with shame. Then I brine pork belly in those hot, bitter tears. (Note: The photos below depict the production of about sixty burgers.)
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