Mejillones en Escabeche

THERE IS A BAR IN THE BACKSTREETS OF SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA RUN BY A ONE-ARMED MAN. THE FIRST TIME I WENT THERE I WAS GREETED WITH THE WELCOMING SMELL OF CALDO GALLEGO, THE GALICIAN VERSION OF COCIDO. I WAS TOLD THE SOUP WOULDN’T BE READY UNTIL THE NEXT DAY, A THURSDAY — THE DAY FARMERS TRADITIONALLY CAME TO TOWN TO SELL THEIR PRODUCE. IT TOOK ME OVER A YEAR TO GET BACK TO SANTIAGO AND AFTER A DAY TRAVELLING THROUGH THE RAIN AND FOG I ARRIVED EARLY ONE THURSDAY EVENING. I WAS