Faccia di Vecchia

I’m in the town of Cammarata, touring west-central Sicily, and my guide is this local, Enzo, a sweet guy and a big character. Sicily’s full of big characters, and by big, I don’t mean tall. Enzo is introducing us to people, we’re walking with the town’s vice mayor, and we have a translator. Enzo and the vice mayor respond to the translator in Italian but occasionally break off into Sicilian dialect. Enzo knows about my Sicilian heritage. He’s testing me.

The dialect wasn’t passed to