Autumn mackerel

Mackerel is the most flavourful of fish, but it has to be really fresh. Better buy frozen mackerel fillets from a supermarket than tired-looking fish, with their skins dull instead of iridescent, from a fishmonger. But if you see fresh mackerel with shiny skin and eyes not sunken, then pounce on them, buying more than you need if you can. Get the fishmonger to fillet them for you, then freeze whatever you don’t need.