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Medium
By Paul Heathcote and Matthew Fort
Published 1998
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This was so good. Simplified it a bit, as didn’t have any salsify or Kümmel (though I’m keen to try some Kümmel now I know what it is), but the celeriac purée was fantastic and the approach to making the sauce and then braising the venison in some of it worked really well. Served it with rowan jelly from The Scots Kitchen. (I found out last week that you it is technically against the bye-laws to forage on Hampstead Heath so my Rowan Jelly is in fact contraband!)
I'm so glad you enjoyed the recipe. Quite right to simplify it. It makes sense to concentrate on the essence of the dish and strip out the cheffy frills. I still think Paul's cooking broke a good many moulds and in someways still does. Rowan Jelly from Hampstead Heath rowans is a refinement II had no thought of.
I remember how fortunate we were at the time finding such great produce. The venison came off the side of Jeffery Hill only two miles away and was handled with such care, the deer stalker knew each and every animal. Whilst it helps you can create recipes produce is so important It also helped that Matthew Fort knew how to unscramble my head to make the recipe work on paper.