Lemon Taglierini with Sea Urchin and Artichoke Cream

Once when we were on holiday in Sardinia, my sister, Alessandra, took us to a very remote restaurant near Cuglieri, in central Sardinia. To start with, they brought us a big basket of bread and a bowl full of ice. Nestled into the ice were live sea urchins, freshly cracked, with extra virgin olive oil drizzled over the roe. We ate the bread dipped into the roe and oil, and I’ve never forgotten the pure intensity of the flavour. Sea urchin roe is available from some fishmong